HAIR CARE AU NATURALE
HAIR CARE AU NATURALE
Shades of Nature
Color has always fascinated us, especially when it comes to our hair. Whether we want a whole new look or just need to hide a few gray hairs, nature can provide the solution.
Exalted in ancient Indian literature and reportedly used by Cleopatra, henna has been used to color and condition hair for centuries. Denise Santamarina, owner of Natural Nouveaux, a chemical-free salon in Las Vegas, swears by the strong red plant pigment. "Unlike chemical dyes which penetrate the hair shaft," explains Santamarina, "henna wraps around each hair, effectively sealing it with a reflective coating." The result is shiny, thicker hair.
Easy-to-use, henna powder is mixed with hot water to a mud-like consistency and applied to hair. After about 45 minutes, the mixture is rinsed out, leaving hair gleaming with a reddish glow. Available at most natural food stores, henna is often blended with other plant pigments such as chamomile or walnut shells to achieve different hues.
Color can also come from a variety of other natural sources. Beets or cranberries provide a burnished red tint. Various shades of brown can be obtained from walnuts, pecans, coffee, or tea. Chamomile, marigolds, or dandelions will give blondes a golden glow.
The only requirement for these plant dyes is that you begin with a hair base light enough to "take" the color. To help guarantee the final effect, do a strand test before applying the dye to your whole head. Check the strand periodically to calculate the time required to achieve the desired result.
To release the pigment from flowers, stems, leaves, and roots, cover 3 cups of the desired plant material with cold water and bring to a boil. Boil for one hour, then strain. Continue boiling the remaining liquid for an additional hour and cool before applying to hair.
For nut dyes, roast a dozen shells in a frying pan until burnt. Cool and grind them as finely as possible. Mix the powdered shells with enough water to form a paste and spread on hair.
Rescuing Battle-Fatigued Hair
Convinced your hair is beyond help? For a quick protein fix, Santamarina suggests the application of a good quality mayonnaise before shampooing. If you need a more intensive remedy, she recommends a hot oil treatment. "Although sebum (the oil your scalp produces naturally) is the best conditioner, plant oils such as sesame or olive oil work well," she says. Her favorite? "Jojoba. Since it has the same molecular weight as sebum, it comes the closest to duplicating our natural scalp oil."
Nature's Hot Oil Treatment
A terrific way to replenish oils and help repair split ends.
3 tablespoons sesame oil 3 tablespoons jojoba oil 1 tablespoon dried nettles 1 egg yolk
Combine the ingredients in a small saucepan and slowly heat to lukewarm. Skim off the nettles and massage the remaining liquid into hair, coating each strand. Wrap your head in a warm towel and leave on for at least 30 minutes, preferably overnight. To remove the oil, shampoo as usual. Old Fashioned Egg Shampoo Nourish hair and scalp with this time-tested protein treatment to restore softness and manageability to dry hair. 2 large eggs 3 tablespoons cider vinegar or juice of half a lemon
Beat the eggs until frothy and massage into the scalp. Leave on for a few minutes before rinsing with warm water. To cut the film left by the eggs, make a final rinse by combining the vinegar (for dark hair) or the lemon juice (for fair hair) with 8 ounces of warm water.
Choose Natural
"Unlike many natural hair care products which nourish the hair and scalp, petrochemically-based cleaners can strip hair of natural oils," says Harmony Urgola, Nutrition Manager for Wild Oats Community Market, a Colorado-based whole foods chain.
While every product may not live up to its claims, can conventional hair care be potentially harmful? Research conducted over the last 20 years suggests that prolonged exposure to some chemicals commonly used in hair care products can be linked to allergies, skin irritations, and certain types of cancer. One report by the National Cancer Institute, published in the American Journal of Public Health, states that women who use hair dyes-especially darker shades-have a 50 percent higher risk of developing non-Hodgkin's lymphoma. Another study, conducted by the University of California and published in The American Journal of Industrial Medicine, found that hairdressers had four times the rate of multiple myeloma, a malignant tumor of the bone marrow. The substances in this study included hair dyes, shampoos, hair conditioners, relaxers, and permanent wave solutions. Although these products are used topically, it's impossible to keep them from touching the scalp, where the chemicals are absorbed. In her book, A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Ruth Winter, MS, says, "It has now been accepted that all chemicals penetrate the skin to some extent, and many do so in significant amounts." According to the FDA however, these products don't require pre-market safety approval.
If you do use over-the-counter hair care products, be well informed. Don't be fooled by a few natural ingredients or environmentally responsible packaging. Companies such as Aubrey Organics make it their business to insure the true "naturalness" of their products. Always check the list of ingredients and the warning labels. "A good rule of thumb...," says Urgola, "if you won't put [an ingredient] in your body, why should you put it on your hair?"
Although not all petrochemicals are toxic, here are several to watch for: Coal tar is a common ingredient in the darker shades of hair dye, as well as many dandruff shampoos. It's been linked to frequent allergic reactions and cancer in animals. Phenylenediamine, often preceded by an m-, o-, or p-, is routinely found in permanent hair dyes and may produce eczema, bronchial asthma, gastritis, photosensitization, skin rashes, and cancer. Ammonium Thioglycolate, used in hair straighteners, can cause severe burns and blistering.
Written by: Kim Erickson
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